After an early boom, organic farming is falling: ‘We can’t find anybody as willing to work’

Farmer Jeremy Brown taps the nose of a young calf. “I love the ones with the pink noses,” he says. This pink-nosed animal is just one of about 3,200 cattle at Twin Birch Dairy in Skaneateles, New York. In Brown’s eyes, the cows on the farm aren’t just workers: “They’re the boss, they’re the queen…